Though it has a Michelin star, we find the menu too fussy and service rather wooden, so we prefer to head into town for a seafood feast at Perard (67 rue de Metz, Tel. 33-3-21-05-13-33, $130), a wonderful old-fashioned fish house that ... 33-3-21-06-07-22, $200), where talented young chef Alexandre Gauthier creates deliciously provocative dishes such as ?sushi? of avocado and sea bass with soy-pickled cucumber, grilled gherkins with bacon chips and tarragon béarnaise, ...
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